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Old 01-02-2012, 06:51 PM
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audioflyer audioflyer is offline
E-8 driver, Cozy builder!
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Warner Robins, GA
Posts: 153
Default Canard building tips

I came up with a few tips for building the canard, which have probably been done before, but I had not come across them.

They primarily involve how to align the foam cores properly. The plans don't go into a whole lot of detail regarding how to align them, it just says to do it. Here's what I did.

The canard hotwire templates are an excellent tool to use for this because they have a flat reference line. So, when I bondo'ed the center section, I first attached the templates to each end and made sure the template level lines were perfectly vertical with a level (I used a right angle level).

Then, to attach the outboard sections, I first micro'ed the ends to the center section and bondo'ed the nails right next to the micro joint, saving the other nails on the outboard cores until later. To make sure the outboard cores matched up to the inboard core ends, I used the hotwire template nail holes. I cut the heads off of nails and inserted them most of the way into the inboard core, then inserted the other end of the nails into the existing nail holes in the outboard cores. Since the cores were cut using these holes for positioning, I thought why not use them to align the inboard and outboard?

Once the micro and bondo cured, I put the templates on the outboard ends of the outboard cores and again made sure the level lines were perfectly vertical to remove any twist. Then, I bondo'ed the rest of the nails. Of course, you still have to make sure the top forward edge of the shear web is level, and that the centerline down that edge is straight all the way down. But I think this way removes a lot of the guesswork with regards to making sure the cores all have the same alignment and no twist.



I also found it difficult to make sure the lift tab inserts were straight. The first time, I used the plans method for installing them and they were not straight. I ended up cutting the 6"x1" block of foam out from around the insert and micro'ing in a new block. This time, I made a template out of a piece of junk plexiglass to help align the lift tabs and inserts to the centerline of the shear web. (see pic below) You could use any kind of stiff, translucent material, but ideally, I think you should make one about 35" long that will extend from one lift tab to another.




I made the drilling templates that go perpendicular to the canard, which the plans use for positioning the inserts. However, since I positioned them using the plexiglass, now I'll go back and position the drilling template using the already attached lift tab insert. Then I'll remove the drilling template and do the shear web.

It's unclear to me at this point how precise the positioning of the lift tabs need to be. I tried to place them as precisely as I could, but the plans don't really emphasize the need for precision in this step. I'm sure there are quite a few among us who would redo things over and over to get them perfect, regardless of whether perfection is necessary - or attainable. I suppose as I get farther along with this, I'll get a taste for which deviations are acceptable and which need to be corrected. However, at this stage since I'm still a beginner at this, if something doesn't look exactly right, I'll fix it or ask you guys (and gals).

Incidentally (is that a canard pun?), my RV builder friend who helped me make the lift tab inserts (which I should have bought from CozyGirrrls as well), told me that the AN426-AD3-4 rivets called out for on that part are the incorrect size, and should be AD3-5. I took his word for it, but if any of you are rivet people maybe you can confirm this and we can get a plans change put in to Zeitlin or Wick.
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Ryan Kyzar
Warner Robins, GA
building Cozy IV plans #1018, ch 8-10
kyzarcozy.blogspot.com
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