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  #1  
Old 10-27-2012, 10:14 PM
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Big Steve Big Steve is offline
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Default end of the tunnel in sight

After 4 coats of primer 2 tubes of spot putty and half a ream of 220 grit sand paper the bottom of the plane is ready to paint. Now for the top. I purchased a propane heater so I can warm the hanger up enough to shoot primer. Wet sanding when it is 40 degrees in the hanger makes for cold hands. I learned one big lesson if I was to do it over. I would paint first then do firewall and all the other stuff on the back of the plane. I have dust and primer and crap rolling down my use to be shiny firewall. I will be able to clean it up but it would have been easier to just get all the paing and dust over with and then work on motor and firewall. Just a thought. I seems the more I prime the bettter my eye gets for flaws. I thought they would never end. I liked doing the epoxy wipe on horizontal surfaces not so much for vertical surfaces. I epoxy wiped the winglets and it ran all over had all kinds of epoxy runs that I had to sand out. I have had really good luck with the 3m spot putty it is bright red and easy to see. It fills all kinds of divots and pin holes it sands really nicely and is pretty tough stuff. Just a few thought about the finishing process I will probably be done in another month or so. I have been sanding now solid for almost 5 months. STeve build on
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  #2  
Old 10-27-2012, 10:37 PM
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Dennis Passey Dennis Passey is offline
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

A big CONGRATS!
I was thinking the epoxy wipe with the west system was supposed to make the Spot putty unnecessary? Cut the typical two-wipes (maybe 3 diff epoxy wipes) down to smooth with the 80(for weird drips) and typically 120 and then smooth-prime.
??
Then sand the primer with 220 and wetsand gleefully until ready for color.
??
I used to use spot putty when I was doing cars in college with bondo a million years ago and it was de riguer. Who knows, maybe I will end up needing to bring it out eventually with this work.
I just thought the epoxy wipes were making it so much easier for pinholes etc.
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  #3  
Old 10-28-2012, 12:08 AM
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David Clifford David Clifford is offline
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

Believe it or not I have almost 400 hours in all the fiberglass work in my RV-10. There is more fiberglass in the -10 than most people think. To fill all the pinholes, I have found that what works best for me is one pure epoxy wipe, sand, 2K urethane primer, let dry, fill remaining pin holes with the red 3M spot putty, sand, prime again with epoxy primer. Today Thane and I were able to get the fuselage final primed in DTM epoxy primer.
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  #4  
Old 10-28-2012, 12:39 AM
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

Dave:

Nice place to work on your plane. I have a hanger neighbor with a Rv-10 two weeks ago I helped him put out a brake fire as he taxied back in. Caught his wheel pants on fire. I had a fire estinquisher and did my duty. Also had a bucket of water I am wet sanding

Dennis:

The epoxy wipe is not the complete cure all for pinholes as advertised. At least not for me. What makes it really tough is after 3 wipes you start getting epoxy ridges from the scraper and they are hard to get rid of. I tried to put it on as thin and wipe but still had problem. I would not put it on a vertical surface ever again. The epoxy made a mess of my winglets I am still sanding it out. I like the epoxy wipe because it gives you a really hard surface to shoot primer on and it is not easy to sand through. When I hit the epoxy I quit. I had all kinds of little dings and low spots after the wipe that I found when I shot my first layer of primer. My first coats were buff colored. Sand it all down fill all the spots. Then shoot with grey primer. Fill more spots. The spots are easier to see in the grey primer. The buff is almost the same color as the micro so it was hard to see errors. Sand the grey primet down till the buff primer starts comming through by now it is starting to look and feel pretty good pin holes almsot non existant but some how I still found a couple. Sand this time with 320 grit instead of 150 and 220 ready for paint. I am learning alot but getting tired of sanding Steve build on
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  #5  
Old 10-28-2012, 01:53 AM
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Steve parkins Steve parkins is offline
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

for 2 stage, base/clear coat. you sand with 400 for the base coat and 800 for the clear coat. 320 will will have a good bond but the base coat will srink down in to the grit and cause the clear above to dull after a day or so. the trick is to get it shiny and stay that way for years to come.
any other way and you'll be the guys sanding and buffing
and with the 2k clears out today...forget it after 3 days, hard as rock
o, and dry sand. no need for wet sanding primer (just clear)anymore.
i use a 1/4 foam pad on my sander and use 1000.1500.3000 grit stuck to that,then buff.
the 1/4" thick pad is soft and can hold water for wet sanding clear.
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  #6  
Old 10-28-2012, 02:20 AM
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

Okay Steve:

I am using a single stage paint I don't want the extra weight that a clear coat will add what grit do you recommend.
STeve sanding on
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  #7  
Old 10-28-2012, 02:39 AM
ZG4Me ZG4Me is offline
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Steve View Post
... the bottom of the plane is ready to paint. ...
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Old 10-28-2012, 02:51 AM
ZG4Me ZG4Me is offline
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Steve View Post
Okay Steve:

I am using a single stage paint I don't want the extra weight that a clear coat will add what grit do you recommend.
STeve sanding on
Color coat goes on like water, clear coat can add weight, but only if you add 4-5 coats of it

Paints I use will show 320 grit sand scratches, so 400 grit minimum for me.

If your last primer/filler coat is perfect, just scuff it with a Scotch-Brite pad (Maroon?), get rid of the dust, and shoot the color coat.

My two Centavos,

Rick
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  #9  
Old 10-28-2012, 03:18 AM
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Dennis Passey Dennis Passey is offline
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

Not to rip off BigSteve's thread here, but theres a great marine paint that a few of the Utah guys are going with. Marine grade stuff and tough and smooth and glossy. Interesting.**
Flame knickers on!

**If it's in that environment and goes on composites and does verticals well and is suitable for a 30 million dollar yacht. Sounds pretty...good.
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  #10  
Old 10-28-2012, 11:36 AM
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

@ David,
What is the attachment method for your cowls? It looks like one half of a hinge. Looks like a better way to secure them than quick turns, correct?
Thanks
Magnum
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Old 10-28-2012, 11:51 AM
argoldman argoldman is offline
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Steve View Post
Okay Steve:

I am using a single stage paint I don't want the extra weight that a clear coat will add what grit do you recommend.
STeve sanding on
Donnknow, steve,

It's been a while since I have painted, but I seem to remember that each paint manufacturer specifies what their researchers have found to be the best for their paint to get the best results.

Might be an idea to look into
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  #12  
Old 10-28-2012, 11:57 AM
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David Clifford David Clifford is offline
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnum View Post
@ David,
What is the attachment method for your cowls? It looks like one half of a hinge. Looks like a better way to secure them than quick turns, correct?
Thanks
Magnum
Correct. The cowls are attached with aluminum hinges per plans. The only modification I made was the bottom attach points (2) on the lower cowling where I removed the two hinges and replaced those with camlocks because you had to fish your hand up thru the cowl air exit and next to the exhaust pipes to install the hinge pins. The Bottom cowl goes on first with a long hinge pin on each side then six large and six small camlocks on the bottom. My snorkel is not per plans and is removable with 17 small camlocks. It has to be off to remove or install the lower cowl. The top cowl is also installed with two hinge pins aft and then the cowl halves are joined with a long hinge pin on each side. I welded on SS tabs on each hinge pin and they are secured to the cowling with a small camlock.
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  #13  
Old 10-28-2012, 12:08 PM
Longshot Longshot is offline
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennis Passey View Post
Not to rip off BigSteve's thread here, but theres a great marine paint that a few of the Utah guys are going with. Marine grade stuff and tough and smooth and glossy. Interesting.**
Flame knickers on!

**If it's in that environment and goes on composites and does verticals well and is suitable for a 30 million dollar yacht. Sounds pretty...good.
I tried the marine paint. Be careful, mine did not adhere to the Primer I used. I stripped it all off using 4 rolls of duct tape. The primer remained solid. Sanded all again and used 2 part single stage Ford white!
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Old 10-28-2012, 01:18 PM
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

@ David,

Thanks and keep going, it looks great!

Magnum
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  #15  
Old 10-28-2012, 04:00 PM
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Default Re: end of the tunnel in sight

My cowls are also attatched by using aviation hinges. Seperated when you pull the pin out. The beauty of it is that ther are no exsposed screws or fastener. It is not easy to do either. I am still woking on mine. STeve build on
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